Travel Log -Ghandruk

If you’re here looking for a clear explanation or guide to get to Ghandruk, then this is not for you. Nor would I even recommend the route we took. Instead, this is my personal recollection of the journey my cousins and I went on. We had time to explore and let our imaginations run wild.

Day One : Arriving in Pokhara

We arrived in Pokhara after hours of delay. This is going to sound snobbish, but it’s the honest truth: I’ve never been on such a small plane before. I was acutely aware of each rickety sound that didn’t seem like it belonged there. I felt a wave of relief when we landed. It must just be something I’m just not used to, because my cousin sitting next to me slept the whole way through.

The air was delicious, and I savored it as if I had been holding my breath for the entirety of being in Kathmandu. My cousins and I headed to Phewa Tal to go boating. To describe how much I have missed the water would require me to explain my long history with competitive dragon boat racing in the US, a team paddling sport. My cousins sat back and let me have this moment. I think they could tell how much it meant to me.

Day Two: The Climb

From Phedi, we walked up thousands of steps, but people passing by us were on their way down. Seemed like we missed the memo and were going the wrong way.

We walked slowly, until suddenly it began to rain. We thought that by October, we would be safe from rain or leeches.

If you stayed still for just a moment, the leeches would close in on you. One tried to wriggle its way through the tiny netting of my shoe. I’d like to say I kept my cool and calmly removed it, but no.

We made it to Pothana and stayed at Heaven’s Gate which was the very first lodge to greet us when we appeared at the top of the stairs. The view was stunning and I thought to myself, if our trip were to end right here, I would be satisfied.

Day Three: Up, Down, Up

I woke up to the sight of the purple and pink mountains, illuminated by the rising sun. Pothana is such a beautiful place to wake up in. Also, if not for the view, the coffee at Heaven’s Gate makes it a worthy stop.

We took a break for lunch in Tolka, and as we waited for our food, we let our feet breathe. The chicken curry at Ram’s Lodge was divine. It’s funny how your body just knows when its energy is depleted.

Landruk and Ghandruk sit on top of two adjacent hills, so you’d go straight down stairs and then straight up. We thought going down hill would be easy, but we were so wrong. We stopped and took refuge at Beehive Guest House in Kyumi.

At night, we went out and looked up at the stars. I wanted to fall into them. I can hardly see the stars in the city; I forget they’re even there. Here, it felt like we were being swallowed up by the darkness.

Day Four: The River

The song of the river cried out to us. It wasn’t enough to just see and hear it from afar. It craved intimacy. It was a rocky path down and we had to find the right places for our feet so as not to disturb the ground beneath us.

How do we get to the center? There was some risk involved, but we finally settled onto a boulder that defiantly stood in her path.

The river is undoubtedly a fierce woman to behold; resilient and unforgiving. I felt protected. I wish I could channel her strength. To crash into life as she does without apology; I rest my ear against her beating heart and listen. She says, look to the right, see my waters come. Now look to your left, see me go. All things in life come and go. Know this.

It took about 3 hours to climb the stairs to Ghandruk, but we also stopped almost every chance we got. We reached Ghandruk and we had the rest of the daylight to relax. We stayed at Hotel Milan which I think offered the best view. We came to know the owner, Shankar Gurung, “Baje”.

Day Five: Ghandruk

I woke up early to see the mountains, hoping that some divine perception would shine into me. I read the story of Adiyogi and Punyakshi. Their love demanded the unnatural, but they were determined, and out of such immense resolve to be together rose the greatest heartbreak of the universe. Punyakshi became known as the Kanyakumari – the heartbroken goddess frozen in eternal wait for her divine lover.

As I looked out at the mountains, I thought of the things weighing on my own heart. When I think of the mountains, I imagine them to be majestic, filled with grace and strength. But maybe it’s all just a disguise, perhaps they’re just as broken as the rest of us. And yet, they’re still standing.

We watched the staff at Hotel Milan work in sync getting the lodge ready for their next guests. Baje was happy to hear we were staying another night. We played Monopoly Deal most of the day while munching snacks and enjoying the crisp air and sun on our skin. The different strategies each of us employed during the game stirred a mock distrust of each other. It was nice to just do nothing, absolutely nothing.

Day Six: Goodbyes

Leaving meant saying goodbye to the mountains. How do I part with them now? How do I go back? There’s so much left I have yet to understand, so much they have left to teach me. With one final glimpse, the clouds moved into place, like a child pushing the sand around to bury and hide their treasure. We’ll meet again, I’m sure. Until next time.

Words: Yuna Lee